The snow is already ass-high as Lake Effect, an Alberta clipper, and the very real threat of Hell freezing over conspire to keep any Food Fairy flights grounded. This fairy is flying nowhere tonight. Primal instincts beckon us to burrow in, bank the fire in the hearth and plop pillows of dumplings into simmering stews. Ahhhh . . . simple, secure and satisfying comfort.

            Comfort with a capital C is what’s cooking in Cleveland Heights at the new-kid-on-the-block, Clyde’s Bistro and Barroom. The irony here is that the new kid is nurtured by an eponymous old pro, Clyde Mart, a longtime veteran of the NE Ohio restaurant scene. Just past his 80^th birthday, he’s showing no slack in his signature style: utterly endearing senior smart-ass. This restaurant is clearly a love letter to his family who are both management and rank-and-file of Clyde’s Bistro and a tribute to his late wife, Mo, a dazzler in the food biz in her own right. 

            In this snazzy synthesis of two once-classic diners, the food is comfort chic. The dining room and bar décor are decidedly un-diner-esque with bold faux zebra, warm woods, metallics and elements of 30’s Baroque. Kicky, not kitschy. Well, except for the mysterious mannequin sitting near the lobby. She kind of creeps me out. If she’s there for keeps, please put her in higher drag—much higher. More Norma Desmond, less Norman Bates.

            The bill of fare offers some good ‘ole classics we know and love with an emphasis on quality, freshness, but without attitude or affectation. Tavern Meatloaf ($11.50) is honest-to-god-meatloaf; Sauteed Calves Liver and Onions ($15.80) are exactly what they say they are. No mystery, no smoke and mirrors and no pedigrees or provenance provided.

            Lately, some restaurants print precious oh-so-self-conscious menu descriptions longer than tear-wringing eulogies. We really dig the whole farm-to-fork movement but do we really need to know that the cow we’re eating enjoyed a diet of only two indigenous grasses or that the free range chicken in repose on our plate conquered seasonal affective disorder and keeled over quietly in the sunshine? From natural causes, of course.  You’ll find no such nonsense at Clyde’s. Honest food—simply and clearly described and presented.

            Food Fairy faves of entrees, presented with a choice of any two interesting sides, are Braised Beef Short Ribs ($17.50); the aforementioned Calves Liver & Onions ($15.80); and Penne Mediterranean ($9.90), a lovely light mix of pasta, spinach sundried tomatoes, pine nuts and feta. One FF visit for a post-Cedar-Lee snack had us trying a terrific tomato soup du jour ($4.30) and fabulous Crispy Fish Tacos ($8.90), perfectly presented in a soft shell with crisp shreds of flavorful cabbage for a great little late supper.

            A few of the sides ($3.50-4.50) merit mention. Though a choice of two accompanies entrees, all are available a la carte. Grilled Asparagus, beautifully simple Sauteed Spinach with Lemon, al dente Green Beans with Walnuts & Shallots, Sweet Potato Stuffing (not the ubiquitous sweet fries, thank God!), crunchy house cut Pommes Frites (French fries by any other name; it is The Heights you know).

            Portions have proved to be generous, but not daunting.  The Food Fairy appreciates not needing a “take-with” box the moment the entrée is presented, but would like management to reconsider our server’s reluctance to substitute a small house salad for a side selection. Just a suggestion, not a FF hissy fit.

            The pricing of items down-to-the-dime gave FF pause. The Tacos at $8.90 are listed as 8.9; soup at $4.30 is 4.3. On first glance, they look like Richter scale readings. It may hearken back to Clyde’s it-is-what-it-is approach and an appeal to the value-minded among us. If it costs them $4.30 total to prepare and serve your soup, then clean up after you then that is exactly what they’ll charge. Not $4.25, not $4.50, but precisely $4.30.  It’s an interesting seismic experiment that might resonate with diners. 

            Hearty sandwiches, burgers, brats, and salads round out the array. The Food Fairy would deserve to be flogged (Ouch! Where’s the sign-up sheet for a light whipping?) if he didn’t commend the warm, attentive and consistent level of service. Open only since Dec. 9, Clyde’s is building a growing cadre of repeat customers. That surely says it all. 

            So brave the elements of winter and get thee to Cleveland Heights. Join the clan at Clyde’s Bistro & Barroom for comfort chic and tell ’em The Food Fairy sent you.

-Mark M. Corcoran

Clyde’s Bistro & Barroom

1975 Lee Road, Cleveland Heights

(216) 321-7100