Whoa! No need for 911! The Food Fairy has not “switched teams” to sample some strange. Naya is not some sultry siren who seduces with almond-shaped eyes. Nor is Naya one of those Bollywood brainiacs working tech support for Microsoft. Naya Bistro & Lounge is an eclectic eatery in Highland Heights. New in the neighborhood since October, Naya (pronounced Nye-Yah) is offering what FF is calling crossover cuisine, a confluence of fusion and the familiar.

 

            The word “naya” pops in several languages with varied definitions. When asked, our server explained the multi-national nature of the word, but thought it was Lebanese meaning food. Our own research showed it was also Hindi for fresh or green and Sanskrit for harmony. All laudable concepts for a restaurant. A follow-up call to Naya’s executive chef, Lanny Chin, offered that it was Phoenician (now there’s a grossly underappreciated language) for fresh and good. Whatever. Naya . . . it just sounds cool.

            This bistro makes its home at the Shoppes at Alpha Place, a new semi-strip at Wilson Mills Road and I-271 where it shares parking with Panera Bread, Qdoba Mexican Grill and Malley’s Chocolate. Naya’s L-shaped space is sophisticated in feel and palette.  Rich browns, earthy reds, textured neutrals and quiet contemporary art offer a soothing environment. The separation of the semi-circular bar is purely visual, suggested by a substantial architectural halo floating above. 

            On our first mid-week visit, we found the place packed to the rafters with diners and drinkers. Wow! Open only three weeks and already it’s SRO? Either this place is doing everything right from the get-go with wildfire word-of-mouth or they’re giving booze away for free. As it turned out we stumbled into their unofficial grand opening which drew a throng of friends, family and well-wishers. They also did a live radio tie-in promotion just that morning, but it was great to see such support for this new venture.

            The menu grabs at some global influences. Nods to Italy, Mexico, Lebanon and the Far East are made. Think the UN of food on uppers. Smoothies and fresh juices (all $4) are unexpected items on a menu constructed of more conventional categories. Surprisingly, the entire menu is offered at both lunch and dinner.

            Soups ($5) we’ve sampled include Lentil with Swiss chard and a nice spike of lemon broth, a Vegetable soup du jour with a kick that Grandma never conjured and a special Alligator/Chorizo soup, hardly regional, but delicious and slightly spicey. We also tried the Risotto Cakes ($9) appetizer, two hearty rice patties with a tomato coulis and balsamic reduction. FF would have preferred smaller cakes and a lighter hand with the vinegar punch, just a thought for better balance and less filling as a starter.

            The Caramelized Fennel Salad ($6) with arugula and celery root crème sounded more interesting than it tasted. Didn’t get much fennel flavor which should intensify and deepen with caramelization. Conceptually, it’s an idea that might benefit from some un-refinement.

            In an effort to appear hip, artisanal and very where-it’s-at, Naya’s food gets lost in the language of menu magnification. Some descriptions left The Food Fairy saying WTF? Case in point, the menu lists two sandwiches served with “marinated lettuce.” Poor, poor leafy, lovely lettuce submerged in a liquid flavoring agent for hours? Oy! No, the reality is the lettuce is lightly coated with a quick dressing toss. Nice idea, wrong term.

            Naya is doing lots of things right. The Naya Burger ($11) at lunch had excellent flavor partnered with smoked gouda (sic), grilled onion and roasted red pepper. We substituted ubiquitous sweet potato fries with on-the-money crunchy garlic chips. A wonderful Falafel Pita ($10) sandwich was complemented by roasted vegetables, sprouts and tahini sauce. The Roasted Salmon with Olive Tapenade ($24) was perfectly prepared at dinner, though we could find little of the promised pistachios in the accompanying risotto and the chef’s daily vegetable mentioned was AWOL from the plate.

            Service here is attentively AC/DC. Sometimes it is and sometimes it isn’t. Our dinner server was adept at disappearing, but our ever-so-perky waitperson at lunch did everything but offer to cut up our food.

            The Food Fairy happily gives a virgin venture a lot of slack when there’s strong evidence of interesting ideas and exuberant creativity. There’s no lack of either at Naya. What’s needed is time and patience to test and mellow.   

            Try Naya, it’s a very promising work in progress and tell ‘em The Food Fairy sent you.

 

Pullquote: The Food Fairy happily gives a virgin venture a lot of slack when there’s strong evidence of exuberant creativity.

 

www.nayabistro.com